New Old House

Moving weekend went pretty smoothly-due partly to the fact that i don't have that much stuff, but mostly because of unsolicited help from my host brother, counterpart and other co worker from the muni. I only moved a few blocks, and was valiently moving boxes and bags one-at-a-time, having been shamed into doing so by the mormons' move-in process the day before.. seriously, these guys showed up with another mormon-mission-couple, on foot, with several rolly suitcases in one trip, then with mattresses and other assorted furniture the next trip, and as far as i could tell that was IT! This left me feeling optimistic that I, too, could move all my belongings all by myself...

Luckily, thanks to the grace and hospitality of my Guatemalan friends and family, I was saved from two full days (maybe more) trekking back and forth and meanwhile parading all my worldy possessions in front of the inquiring eyes of my neighbors.... A couple car trips and one pick up truck haul later, I have all my stuff here. *phew* Quickly, I had to move because.. well I'm still not too sure, but I have moved from a big, cold house with little privacy and mean neighbors, into a cozy two bedroom apartment with an enclosed patio that is connected to my ex-host family's house...I think this is going to be good.

The instituto here, which has an applied learning based grade school, middle school, and high school and where I occasionally do presentations, activities, etc. is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year-and as such are having a big celebration at the beginning of august. Yesterday was the preliminary selection of the 'beauty queens' of the event and I was asked to be one of the judges... Now i don't support the whole concept of beauty pageants, but in central america its like, a big deal, and i couldn't say no. So i went, watched 14-17 year olds parade around in high heels and dresses, do a dance, make a speech, then parade around in their choice of sports wear.... I had a good laugh there because, as you may already know, they play One sport here and One sport only-FUTBOL! So, the beauty queens each had to choose a different sport, and the announcer introduced each like "Rosmary is dressed as a golf player, a sport that isn't practiced so much in Guatemala but in the United States they play it" "Claudia is dressed as a cyclist, a sport that isn't practiced so much here but in Europe they totally ride bikes" etc. Of course, it was Freezing Cold yesterday afternoon; intermittent rain combined with icy wind made for some shivering scantily clad would-be beauty queens. Reminded me of all those winter water polo and swimming events, a different kind of competition all together.

So it was an eventful weekend altogether. Back at work today, to see what all the week brings. Guiding a school visit to the park on Thursday. Planning an HIV/AIDS education and prevention workshop for next week at the middle school. Hoping to install interpretive signs in the park sometime this month.

Until next time...

Recent Shenanigans

The best way to endure a 6 hour van ride....

View of Utila from the boat

Checking out some amazing reef

Wild mushroom feast

Cooking sweet tamales with the women's group at the library-these ladies make my day

Brrrr-even Bella's cold!

Baby, It's Cold Outside

I returned to Sija after a wild and crazy last adventure with BFF Emily to Honduras to soak up some sun, swim, and snorkel the amazing reef there. 15 hours on a bus followed by a rocky ferry ride to get to the Bay Islands *whew* one thing about Central America-it has made me unblinking in the eye of long travel. Public buses, no a/c (not such a big deal here in the FRIGID western highlands, but on the coast....), and lots of cheeseburgers in paradise!

Returning to Sija (brrr) received the unexpected news that my landlady wanted to reoccupy the house i'm living in and therefore...would it be a huge problem for you to move out...in 2 weeks? great, no problem there. Actually this was a blessing in disguise; the big house was cool for a while but the charm has worn off and all that empty space is only good for dust and dog hair to collect. Plus living in a two story house-completely overrated.

It must be fate that i leave this house though because i went over to my host family's house to discuss the possibility of renting one room from them-and my host mom beat me to the punch by breaking the news that their renters-in their downstairs, separate apartment-were leaving in two weeks and would i still be interested in renting it out..... The universe works in mysterious ways is all I can say to that.

So I am unbelievably lucky and excited to be moving into a smaller place with much more privacy where Bella isn't subjected to the cruel taunting of the neighbor kids and I can spend less time cleaning, more time with my host family, and MOVE AWAY from the mechanic shop downstairs. t-minus 2 weeks!!!!

Peace Corps is a time of continuous learning; bucket baths, handwashing clothes, composting, wrapping tamales, making tortillas, managing the public buses, bargaining, making peanut butter from scratch, raising a puppy, building letrines, designing interpretive trails, crocheting......and now-mushroom hunting!

As i mentioned, mushroom season is upon us! Counterpart Verney Ochoa had promised to show me which ones were edible last year and finally we went hiking on Friday, dogs in tow, to find some delectable local fungi to eat. We gathered a good amount of mushrooms hiking in a new forest up above his aunt's house, three different varieties- (and as a disclaimer, you should only eat mushrooms ok'd by an experienced local who knows the difference between the good and bad (and magic) mushrooms...which my counterpart luckily is). We brought back the goods to Aunt Flori's kitchen where she made us a tipico mushroom soup with these bright yellow mushrooms called cansuys (sp?). With fresh tortillas hot off the plancha, this soup of tomato, cilantro, onion, garlic, and mushrooms which gave the soup a bright yellow color and amazing flavor was amazing. The other two kinds we fried up with butter and garlic- yummmm. So excited to finally learn to harvest the wild mushrooms here because they can't be had otherwise and i LOVE mushrooms!

I found some more of the white ones called "sheep's ear" mushrooms today on a hike and can't wait to saute them up with some baby zucchini... I am incredibly grateful for Guatemala's constant supply of the freshest fruits and vegetables. You have to eat with the seasons here (well, except for the obligatory tomatoes, onions, chilis, potatoes) and I take full advantage. The women's group has started a cooking series, with a new dish each Thursday afternoon and I look forward to sharing new healthy and tasty ways of preparing the awesome bounty of produce available-starting with peach jam this week (it's peach season, can you believe it?)

It continues to be cold and wet here, as i longingly read the weather forecasts of 90s and 100s back at home. The Honduras trip was necessary; during this time of year the sun doesnt come out for days at a time and as you all know, i am a lizard. I washed clothes yesterday morning and hung them out to dry and they are still damp. A girl could go Crazy in weather like this. luckily i have a snuggly puppy and a good book. Until my next tropical vacation.......

Sincerely,
Freezing in sija

Time flies when you're....

"Basico" kids come to the park to help reforest after losses from Pine Beetle

You know what they say about all work and no play...

Workin' girl...

Where to begin? We've been making headway in the park, most of my work has been up there the last few weeks. As you can see, went up with members of the park admin group to install monkey bars, see-saws, swings, barbecue grills, and trash cans last thursday. It looks great! Next step; letrines and picnic tables.

you can also see that i had the help of the agriculture class at the local middle school (basico) to plant over 200 trees the 2nd week in May. We hope to have them back to continue reforestation in an area of the park where we had a serious pine beetle infection last year-over 120 pine trees were cut down in an attempt to stop the animal from spreading to the rest of the park. Unfortunately, it has been detected in the park again not from last year's contaminated site. We are working to contain it yet again. But the park hasn't been the area hardest hit by pine beetle-private land owners growing pine trees for lumber didn't know what to do to control the infection and have lost large areas of forest as a result. Which means that San Carlos Sija needs to do serious reforestation projects in the following years to rehabilitate the deforested area.. I will be following through in the month of june with looking for more community help in reforestation.

The rainy season threatens to begin; the second week in may it rained hard every day-then it hasn't rained for a week. Definitely different from last year-it started pouring in April last year and rained almost every day throughout the 'summer' months. Who knows what the next few months will bring weatherwise....

I am renewing my interest/dedication in the Flora and Fauna project for the park-birdwatching continues to be an interest and i am finally diving into the plant identification. This month I hope to get common names for most of the plants in the park, followed by their scientific names through routine 'detective work'... cross referencing common names in the index for the daunting "Flora of Guatemala" document that i have in pdf on my computer. As they say here 'poco a poco' a more comprehensive picture of the plants in our park will emerge. I am quite lucky to be working with a healthy forest ecosystem-i am always seeing new flowers, birds, and mushroom season is almost upon us. I saw a Blue-throated Motmot for the first time last week in the park. Always something new and exciting there.

I hope everyone is healthy and happy out there...

-Amber

First day of Easter or Holy Week break started out like any other day-I felt that I was in for a day of mind numbing boredom with no travel plans, no friends in town, chores to do, a bored puppy.....I thought I would take a hike on the mountain but not entirely enthusiastic about the idea, i decided to stall by taking care of the pile of dishes in the sink and dirty clothes in the laundry basket.

The sky was cloudy, as it had been the past few days, and which my counterpart accounted to burning sugar cane on the coast...I was a little doubtful about that theory, holding out high hopes for some rain. I'll be singing a different tune come mid-rainy season, but the dry season (mid-november and on) has turned my town into a dustbowl-the likeness to an old western movie lost its rustic appeal quickly. Non-weather sealed doors + living next to the dirt soccer field = a lopsided battle against dust in my house.

Where was I? oh yes, I had decided to do chores. Now, since my host family moved to xela, taking their washer machine with them, I have been handwashing clothes more often than not-it is, in fact, easier than hauling them down to xela to the laundromat. Not being my favorite task, it only happens once or twice a month, and inevitably invokes a little shower. But today, as I was hanging my first socks out to dry, it began to sprinkle. Thunderclouds rolled in, i finished up with the laundry, and took the hint to curl up inside with a book all day so far. Have successfully only left the house to buy ingredients for Tomato Dumpling Soup and take Bella to stretch her legs. She's got rainy day puppy syndrome, but for the moment is curled up happily in my reading chair.

So a mediocre day has turned into a great, cozy, rainy day with fantastic thunder and lightning, which for me never gets old. With the power flickering on and off, I may even get to read by candlelight tonight. Willie Nelson on the stereo, some hot chocolate, and warm soup on the stove. Does life GET any better?

T-minus one year

So i've hit and passed the one-year-left mark in my service in a whirlwind- last few days of my parents' visit, 24th birthday celebration, and now heading to mid-service conference. The month of april holds all the craziness involving Semana Santa, or holy week-which in Guatemala, a country renowned worlwide for its Holy Week (easter) processions and celebrations, is basically a two week long hiatus from work and school for practically everyone (unless you sell food or fireworks, or have won the lottery and get the honor of carrying the giant altar/diorama type things down the street, which for those noncatholics out there is a form of penance i guess) ... What does that mean for me? A lull in school and library activity which will hopefully give me a chance to get on my feet after vacation-and allow me to hit the ground running with renewed gusto (!) after Holy Week..

So, since I've hit the big one year mark in service, I suppose I should like, reflect on my Peace Corps Experience thus far, answer the big questions, something like that? And renew my commitment to blogging for the family, perhaps? Ok here goes a little self-interview to shed some light on peace corps and me:

Is Peace Corps what you expected?

Let me first say that I tried very hard to go into this whole thing without big expectations because i think that's the easiest way to ruin these experiences for yourself. Each and every peace corps country, program, and individual site and project is different-and comes with its own ups and downs, perks and let downs. So no, it hasn't been what i expected in the respect that i'm not in a village (population 200) with thatch roofs, dirt floors, and the only water source a well a mile down the road.....I think that's what everyone pictures automatically when you say peace corps, right? So my advice, for potential peace corps applicants or anyone considering a dramatic change in their life, is to try really hard to keep an open mind about it.

Would you do it again, knowing what you know now?

A thousand times yes. Becoming versed in another culture and language alone is an experience that you can't buy or gain in two weeks time on vacation. Of course there are good times and bad times in your service-but this is true of life in general. I've tried to remember that in the past year-things are always changing and they can't always be good. But i've had more than enough good times to be worth it. Interacting with the women and children in my town has been infinitely rewarding, as well as the people that i meet every now and then who really understand what i'm saying when I talk about environmental issues, conservation, trash management, etc. I've learned so much that I couldn't have learned in a classroom (no offense Cal Poly)...or in a job in the states.

Working in a developing country tests you constantly on a whole other level-you're constantly blindsided and surprised by the issues you encounter in your job. I've learned, above all, to have PATIENCE...it's so important here. And I have definitely surprised myself by what I am capable of, that has been very empowering. So for those of you 'thinking about' joining peace corps or any other organization working outside of the states, i say go for it. its not for everyone, but at least you'll know you've tried.

What do you hope to accomplish in the year ahead?

Man, that's a tough one...I feel like i've finally got the ball rolling on various projects-i've started working very strongly with the community library so there is a ton of potential there. I've seen the most rewards from working with the youth here on environmental education and awareness about the dire environmental problems that guatemala is facing right now. A fun way i've found of doing that is doing recycled art projects-they are so creative here and they really love new ideas for art projects-especially ones that make use of what would otherwise be trash. This saves on costs for schools and craft hour at the library, while also making use of items that would otherwise end up in the dump (which is basically a ravine...).

So to return to the question-I would like to work with more schools on environmental education, continue to work with women and young girls on gender development, self esteem and leadership, continue to develop the park project i've been working on, start a cultural tourism project with the artesan cheesemakers here, start work on HIV/AIDS education with the youth....... In short, i have a lot to do, and little time to do it in. Only time will tell....

What about your long distance relationship?

Well.... I don't want to jinx us, but its going really great. I'm only writing about this for those potential peace corps applicants wondering to do about their current boyfriend or girlfriend. I literally Googled "peace corps long distance relationship?" before deciding to come here.

I guess my best advice is not to duck out on a Big Dream like Peace Corps because of your significant other....because i think in the end it leads to resentment. I've been extremely lucky thus far because things are working out as well as they could between my boyfriend and i. Long distance sucks, but if its the right person, you'll find a way to make it work. Thats all.

What do you miss most about the States?

Honestly, my family and friends there. And good microbrews... the rest of it I can live without. I mean, I do have most modern luxuries here anyways-internet, hot shower.... i do miss central heating too i guess. But i love the crazy, organized chaos that is central america and wouldn't mind just staying here. Well not here (no offense Sija)...somewhere warmer, where i can swim every day and hopefully snorkeling *cough* did someone say CARIBBEAN COAST?! but seriously guys, once you speak the language, most of the time central america's pretty cool. Now if only the guys here could learn that catcalling is not an acceptable social behavior..... maybe if i got brown contacts and dyed my hair?

What bugs you most about Guatemala?

The noise...its a really loud culture. Funny story though; I went to Tikal with the 'rents last week and the guide showed us how the central plaza had been constructed to produce amazing acoustics (read: lots of noise), which just show how far back the need for noise goes here in Guatemala (back to like 900 BC or something).

But the revving engines, roosters, loudspeakers driving slowly through the streets selling Zeta Ga-as, ice cream, soap, or just talking for the sake of talking, air compressor ( i live right above a mechanic shop)....well you get the picture. it wears on you after a while. Ear plugs are indispensible if you are headed to central america. lets just leave it at that.

What do you love most about Guatemala?

Had to follow up the negative with a positive...and seeing the country this past week through new eyes (my mom and dad) gave me a whole new-or at least refreshing-perspective on this country and its vibrant culture and tradition and rich history that has made Guatemala what it is today. Its mayan culture and historical value combined with a natural beauty and biodiversity-the northern peten region is virtually untouched jungle and known as one of the major "lungs" of the world... astound repeatedly.

Apparently on my birthday i gave a heartwarming, whiskey fueled speech on how much i love Guatemala.... It has a lot to offer. It's hard to choose just one thing.... Its natural beauty, the warmth and hospitality of its people, the chicken buses, diversity of landscape and culture, the food.... I can't pick just one thing-there's too much. To wrap up this lengthy reflective literary feat...i'd just like to say that its been a crazy, awesome, surprising, memorable 15 months and I can't wait to see what the next 12 months hold.

To everyone back home, stay safe and try not to be TOO jealous ;)

xoxo amber

The Branskes do Guatemala

Arriving in my site this is the hill I walk down to get to my house... it is the two level beige house right above my head.

The chicken buses in the bus station in Xela


The spice market, pumpkin and squash seeds, chili powder, sesame seeds, dried beans, and other unidentified spices.

The market in Xela where i occasionally pick up super cheap fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices, and most importantly the newest blockbuster movies!


In El Cuartito, a cute little cafe and bar in Xela where we had breakfast


First bar in Guatemala!


Beautiful church front bordering the Central Park in Xela, Guatemalas second largest city. The church was constructed by Spanish conquistadores in 1538 (?), but now only the facade in front remains.

In the lobby of the hotel where my parents stayed their first nights in Xela...

The parents finally arrived this thursday after much anticipation. So far we have had incredible luck (knocking on wood) traveling and made some unforgettable memories. They have, in the three and a half days that they have been in Guatemala,
1. ridden on not one, but two chicken buses, a boat, an inner city microbus...and survived
2. met my adopted family here, dog, best friend, counterpart, and half the city
3. experienced the guatemalan Inauguration custom when they opened the new Muni (city hall) building
4. hiked the trail in the park i work in
5. seen my house (and did a little cleaning and fixing up while there, they couldnt help themselves!)
6. wined and dined me.....lots......

and now we find ourselves in the GORGEOUS Casa del Mundo hotel on Lake Atitlan, which Aldous Huxley once called the most beautiful lake in the world. The view is stunning, and more pictures to come. but right now i have to run.....theyre about to serve some grub up in the dining area. I should mention that the dining experience alone is an unforgettable one here, as everyone sits down to eat and greet, as it were, together in a dining area overlooking the lake and its bordering volcanoes. tonight were having grilled chicken with chimichurri as a thunderstorm rolls in across the lake.

ttfn,

your favorite peace corps volunteer